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Vance Moore’s Bookends
I got started making these bookend sets about three years
ago. The first set I made for a lawyer who needed some really
heavy bookends that would actually hold up the law books in his
office. After that, they took off on their own. Now they are one
of my best selling Christmas item. I sold so many last Christmas
that I got tired of making them, but they sell. Lots of
secretaries buy them for their bosses; so any office setting is
one place to look for potential customers. Figure 1.
I make them in two sizes, four inch and five inch. For the
four inch set I start with two pieces of angle iron 4 X 4 X ¼,
for the five inch set, use angle iron 5 X 5 x 5/16. I cut each
one to width the same as the side length. The angle iron pieces
are the base and the side.
The scrolls and leaves are made from one piece of 1 X 1/8
flat bar (although you could use any width you prefer). For a
four-inch set, start with a piece of flat bar 16½ long, for a
five-inch set, start with a piece 19 long.
Except for the obvious (forge, hammer, chisel, anvil etc…)
the only other tool you need is a set of scrolling jigs (and
possibly a grape cluster jig). The scrolling jig I use was
purchased at Tannehill, Alabama. It came with a piece of flat
bar welded to the bottom, for gripping in a vise. I quickly
realized that I could not make mirror image scrolls, since there
was not enough room for the leaf and stem to go past the vise,
so I made the second scrolling jig, flipped it over and welded a
flat bar
grip on the bottom. Figure 2.
There are endless possibilities and options you can do to the
leaves. Two of the better options I have found are the grape
clusters and the double leaf end. The double leaf end is made
just like the single leaf end; only split the measured end of
the bar in half, then forge each half like a single stem and
leaf. Twisting the stems together gives a nice look.
For the optional grape clusters I use sling shot ammo, it is
cheaper than ball bearings and comes in two sizes, ¼ and
3/8. I did
make a "V" shaped jig for holding the grape clusters when I weld
them together. I made the jig by cutting off a slice
(approximately 3/16
thick) of angle iron. Heated it and bent the sides in until I
had the size and shape I wanted. Then I welded that to a piece
of flat bar. Now I can just lay my eight spheres in the jig and
weld them together.
One of the drawbacks with the sling shot ammo is that two
sides are flat. When you lay them in the jig always make sure
that a flat side is not showing. I always weld the grape cluster
to the leaf stem after I have finished soaking the bases and
scrolls. I found out that if you soak the slingshot ammo grape
clusters too long, you will end up with raisin clusters.
After I have completely finished the bases and the scrolls I
soak them in vinegar to remove all the scale. I love using
vinegar since it can soak in there for weeks till you can get
back to the pieces later. When I am ready to finish a set I take
them out of the vinegar and clean them in soapy water with a
stiff brush.
I use a wire wheel on the grinder to brush off the leaf
scrolls and bases.
For cleaning inside the scrolls I have found fitting brushes
from a plumbing supply store work great. The brand I prefer is
called Black Swan; they come in ½, ¾ and 1 inch sizes and hold
up well. After I have cleaned the scrolls and the bases, then I
wire brush off the grape cluster and weld it to the stem.
To attach the scroll to the base, measure across the top of
the base and make a chalk mark halfway. Then center the scroll
over the mark and spot weld the scroll to the base from the
back.
For a finish use clear acrylic spray, I have never used any
other type of finish on the bookends. The clear acrylic gives a
good shine to the metal. The last step is to put some type of
padding on the bottom of the base. I have used the sticky back
felt that you can purchase at any craft store. Cut it a little
smaller than the base so you cannot see it. Another good padding
for the bottom is shelf liner; a brand called Grip Liner
works well. It does not have a sticky
backing, so a few drops of hot glue will hold it in place. The
shelf liner has a better gripping tendency than the felt.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Start the process by working the angle iron/bases. Heat
the pieces in the
forge till red hot. Then use a ball peen hammer to "scallop"
around all the
edges and texture the flat faces of the angle iron. Be sure
and keep the
pieces at their 90 degree angle. Always put your touchmark on
the back of
both sides, since you never know which side will end up
horizontal and
which side will be vertical. Figure 3.
2. The next step is to cut the flat bar for the scroll and
leaves. For a four inch set
start with flat bar 1 x 1/8 X 16½, for a five inch set, start
with 1 X 1/8 X 19.
On the 16½-inch piece, punch or chisel a line 1½ inch from
each end.
On the 19-inch bar, punch or chisel a line 2 inches from each
end.
1 ¾ In. 2 In.
3. Heat one end of the flat bar and fuller into both sides of
your mark. Go
half way down from the first fuller and fuller into both
sides again.
Repeat to the other end of the bar. The stem of the leaf is
the ½
closest to the bar, the leaf is the ½ toward the end. Figure
4.
Set the bar on its side and alternately cross peen both
sides between the two fullers to draw out the stem. For now
keep it square, and draw it out to about ½ an inch wide and
1 inch
long. Don’t draw it out too much, or try
and round off the stem now, it makes forming the leaf
harder, since the stem will wobble.
Figure 5.
Form the leaf from the end piece of the bar by pointing
the end. Then cross peen for width and draw out for length.
After you have the desired shape then chisel in the veins
and fold the leaf. There is no right or wrong to leaf
making, make what suits you. After finishing the leaf then
finish drawing out and rounding off the stem. Usually to
between 2 and 3 ½ inches.
Just where the shoulder stem meets the flat bar, fold the
stem and leaf 180 degrees back. Then using scrolling tongs,
turn the stem up, so it runs perpendicular
with the bar. Leave enough lip
near the shoulder stem for the scrolling jig to catch and
hold.
Do the same thing to the other end, CAUTION!! Make
this shoulder fold to the opposite side, then bend
the stem and leaf up in the same direction as the other end.
Figure 6.
Now you’re ready to scroll the bar. Re-heat the bar, and
cool just the lip at the base of the stem by dunking it in
the slack tub. Scroll around your jig, but don’t go past the
end of the jig, or you will get a bend in the scroll.
Re-heat and do the same for the other end. Figure 7.
After the scrolling is complete, use a set of scrolling
tongs to twist and roll the stems so they look nice. I
always check the fit of the scrolls and leaves against the
base, to be sure that I have a good fit and that none of the
leaves are in the way or sticking out too far.
That is about it. With a little practice you can make the
entire leaf and scrolled pieces in about a half hour. If anyone
has any questions, comments, ideas or improvements I would love
to hear from you. Drop me an email at southpilo2@aol.com or if
you are in Meridian give me a call. |